The An family allows only relatives in their secret kitchen when they’re preparing the roast Dungeness crab with garlic noodles at their Crustacean restaurants in Beverly Hills and San Francisco. However, we detect that the recipe involves gobs of garlic, some sugar in the deliciously addictive noodles and–despite this being a Vietnamese dish–butter and Parmesan cheese. Whatever the formula is, it works. The two restaurants sell about 600 crabs a day. So don a bib, dive in and get your fingers messy.